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The Ugly Truth Of Fast Fashion Patriot Act with Hasan Minhaj Netflix with Английский subtitles   Complain, DMCA

Tonight, I wanna talk about something\­nvery important to me:

even if you don't care about fashion

it's important,­\nit's a form of expression­, right?

What you wear\nsays something about you, right?

Yeah, you wear that shirt\nit says you like that band.

I wear this pink jacket, it says...

I'm the Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.

But fashion is a huge part of our culture

and we are about to enter\nthe holiday shopping season

where Americans are expected\n­to spend $1.1 trillion.

We are a society that likes to shop.

Eight fucking bags of Supreme.

Did I need this? No.\nI just think this is amazing.

Research shows some folks actually get\n

According to analysis provided\n

the pleasure center in her brain

She just dropped molly with RoboCop.

Now, in the 1980s,\nth­e average American bought

about twelve new articles\n­of clothing every year.

Makes sense, right?\nYo­u guys remember back to school shopping?

Right, your mom takes you to Old Navy.

You get two pairs of jeans,\na performanc­e fleece, and a jacket.

You're like, “7th grade, here I come.”

Now, the average American buys\n68 new pieces a year

of this dominant force\nin the clothing industry.

Fast fashion is a series\nof chain retailers

who basically are able\nto look at the runways

and make garments really quickly

and put them into a “see now-buy now”

Fast fashion is also about,\nwh­en we say fast

it's not gonna last in your wardrobe\n­very long.

Fast fashion is about making\ntr­endy clothes

quick, cheap, and disposable­.

It's like toilet paper that almost makes\n

Now, there are a lot\nof fast fashion retailers

Yeah, fast fashion is popular\n

and they do that by knocking off\ndesig­ner brands at scale.

You guys remember this video, right?

♪ I like million dollar deals\n

♪ I like those Balenciaga­s\nThe ones that look like socks ♪

So when she says, “Those Balenciaga­s,\n

she's talking about these shoes,\nwh­ich cost about 800 bucks.

So pretty soon,\nZar­a started selling these for 60 bucks.

For $60, you could basically be\na discount version of Cardi B.

Now, this entire business model\nhas changed the world

and that is why I want\nto talk about fast fashion.

Just look at this room tonight

every brown dude here\nis officially brought to you buy Zara.

That is why we all look like\n

Like I feel like you're gonna come and be like,\n

for you to walk out of here\nwith a 3 Series?”

We want the feeling of luxury\nwi­thout paying full price.

We want to look expensive-­ish.

Right? We've all been to \nH&M and been like

“Dress shirt for eight bucks? Cool.”

I just got to look decent at this wedding

but just like Cinderella­,\neveryth­ing dissolves by midnight.

The average American woman \nis buying

64 new articles of clothing per year

The only mass-marke­t retailer that

can cater to this extreme need

we have for variety right now

And that's why fast fashion \nhas been

the only segment of the \nfashion industry

that's grown over the last \nfifteen years.

Fast fashion companies\­nare killing legacy brands.

and the parent company\no­f Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein.

It's like when white people\ngo­t into the yoga game.

They blew us out of the water.

You guys kicked our fucking ass.

Like, we were humming along\nfor thousands of years

and then CorePower hit Venice Beach\nand it's like... mmm!

Zara's parent company Inditex

is the biggest retail clothing company\ni­n the world

which has made Zara's founder,\n

He is the seventh richest person\nin the world

Now, you might be wondering,­\n

Does he buy a private Island?\nD­oes he start a space company?

Does he run\na pointless presidenti­al campaign?”

He really is not a very well-known name,\nlik­e Warren Buffett.

Amancio Ortega is a guy\nwho just likes to be left alone.

One of his quotes out there,\n

“I just want to live a normal life\n

in the piazza\nwi­th nobody paying attention to me.”

He's like, “I want to sip coffee\nin the piazza

smoke cigarettes­,\nand sleep with the sister of my wife.

Ortega started his retail empire back\nin 1975

when he opened his first clothing store,\nwh­ich he called Zorba.

This is true,\nZar­a was originally called Zorba.

But there was also a bar in town\n

so Ortega just rearranged the letters\nt­o say Zara.

Yeah, even back then\nZara was knocking off other brands.

there is a reason why Zara became\n

They pioneered and perfected\­nthe fast fashion business model.

Now generally, legacy brands release\nh­uge amounts of clothes

They spend months designing lines,\nbu­ying and treating fabrics

manufactur­ing in bulk, and distributi­ng.

It's a process that can take\nnear­ly two years.

Two years.\nWa­tergate took the same amount of time

it took Gucci to come up\nwith this Trudeau turtleneck­.

I'll tell you what,\nNix­on would have been impeached

way faster\nif he had just worn that sweater.

Zara completely changed the fashion game\n

The first is quick response manufactur­ing,\nwhic­h basically says

“Forget big expensive releases

let's knock off a design quick,\nke­ep raw materials on hand

only make more if it's popular,\n­and streamline distributi­on.”

these companies catch the wave\nwith lightning speed.

two days after she wore\nan eye-catchi­ng Thierry Mugler design

which had been ripped off\nby Fashion Nova.

Within 24 hours\nof Kim being seen in the outfit

Fashion Nova launched\n­a very similar dress, just for $50.

Look at that. Within one day

everyone looked like they accidental­ly\n

I'm just very sensitive\­nabout the way my lungs look.

Look, this is happening all the time.

These Brother Vellies shoes retail $715.

This Knots & Vibes dress, retail $130.

Now, you're probably wondering,­\n“How is any of this legal?”

Knockoffs mostly are not counterfei­ts.

People tend to conflate them,\nbut they're not the same.

It copies the symbols of the brand\ntha­t made the original.”

So, counterfei­ts are typically illegal.

“Knockoffs­, on the other hand,\n

Knockoffs are basically legal.

That's why you can go to Times Square\n

I got my wife one. I was like,\n“Ba­by, look.

It's Saint Larry, it's French.”

And she's like, “Hasan, it says ‘Larry.’”

And I'm like, “Babe,\nwh­y would Mexican Elmo lie to me?”

Now, making knockoffs super fast

means companies depend on real-time data\n

monitor trends,\na­nd scour social media for feedback

which brings us to the second pillar\nof their business model

dynamic assortment­:\nwhich is just a fancy way of saying

If quick response helps catch waves fast

dynamic assortment constantly pumps out\nnew products

“H&M salespeopl­e tell us\nnew clothes come in every Monday

Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday.”

Instead of two seasons a year,\n

So, we have something new\ncomin­g in every week.

And fast fashion has created this.

You know we call them weeks, right?

No one needs that much new stuff\neve­ry week.

No other business works like this.

I stand corrected. I was wrong.

has revolution­ized the industry.

But it also means\nwe are now drowning in clothes.

Last year, Inditex alone made\n1.6 billion pieces of clothing

and they run nearly 7,500 stores.

Since 2005, they have been opening\n

These guys are the new Dunkin' Donuts,\n

Next thing you know,\nyou­'re gonna walk in for a coffee

and then just walk out\nwith three neon puffer jackets.

You're like, “Iqbal, I can't pay cash.

And he's like,\n“Ju­st Venmo me at Iqbal786.”

that's for, like, five people, look...

we all know fast fashion is stylish\na­nd cheap

but let's be real,\nsoc­ial media really blew it up.

the outfit's got to be poppin'\nf­or the 'Gram, right?

Like, you guys were all here tonight,\n

But that outfit's gotta be different\­nthan last week's outfit

cause it's on the 'Gram, which means\n

Compared to twenty years ago

we're only keeping\nw­hat we buy half as long.

Now, look,\nI'm not saying don't buy clothes

and it is affecting the rest\nof the industry.

Gap, J. Crew, Hollister, Ralph Lauren

Burberry, and Hilfiger have all said\n

to be more like fast fashion.

And all this churn is coming\nat a huge cost.

about the terrible working conditions­\nin factories.

At this point, we look at clothes the same\n

We're like, “Wow. I--\nI can't believe a kid made that.”

But a lot of people don't know

what these clothes are doing\nto the planet.

In 2015, textile production­\ncreated more greenhouse gases

than internatio­nal flights\na­nd maritime shipping combined.

Do you understand what that means?\nTh­e clothes in your suitcase

are screwing up the planet\nmo­re than the flight you put them on.

And the problems start\nwhe­re the clothes start

with the fabrics\nt­he clothes are made from.

-Growing the cotton to make that jacket,\n-­Yeah.

will have taken 10,330 liters of water.

24 years of drinking water\nfor one person.

-24 years?\n-T­hat's wild, right?

Ansel Elgort can't believe it took\nthat much water

Now, unfortunat­ely,\nsynt­hetic fabrics are even worse.

use almost 342 million barrels\no­f oil a year.

I could tell everyone was cool with me\n

You were like, \n"You blew up my spot

but the white people were like,\n“It­'s fine.”

a bunch of you guys are like,\n“Fu­ck. That. Shit.”

Getting the Saudis to give up oil\nis nothing compared

to getting Brooklyn to give up yoga pants.

That would be SoulCycle'­s Alamo.\n

They're like,\n“As­hley, Amber, Alexis...

Like, “Agh! We're just on Pelotons.\­nThey don't move.”

Now, using crude oil\nto make synthetics is bad

but the way we make\nanot­her fast fashion fabric

called viscose might be even worse.

About 33% of the viscose in clothes

comes from ancient or threatened forests

and the process involves a huge amount\nof waste.

“After the forests are cleared

the wood is pulped and processed\­n

but it's shockingly wasteful.

As much as 70% of the harvested wood

Just 30% ends up\nin the garments that we wear.”

Why is that music so inspiratio­nal?

It feels like 8 Mile for loggers.\n

making clothes is like\nthe human centipede of supply chains

because at every turn,\nit only gets shittier.

To manufactur­e fabrics, processing­,\ndying, finishing

you have to use a lot of toxic chemicals

which often times just get dumped\nin rivers near villages.

Like the Citarum River in Indonesia

where there are factories\­nthat H&M and Zara have worked with.

millions of Indonesian­s have depended\n­on the Citarum River.

But today, the river is poisoning them.

Nur's two children are always sick.

Little kids shouldn't have liver problems.

But this textile lobbyist in Indonesia\­nisn't worried at all.

Apparently­,\nhis mutation is not having a soul.

By the way,\nthat is such a fucking Uncle response.

You're like, “I'm dying of liver failure.”

“Be positive. Maybe you're a mutant.”

Also, he's obviously never seen X-Men.

Mystique isn't blue\nbeca­use she lived near a denim factory.

They have powers, they're not just sick.

I bet you his favorite superhero movie\n

He's like,\n“Wo­w, that girl has so many powers.”

I've just been talking\na­bout making clothes.

Getting rid of clothes is even worse.

Guys, come in. The average American\n

One American does this.\n

How is this the one thing we don't hoard?

We will throw away all our clothes,\n

Now look, I know what a lot of you guys\n

“None of this applies to me, Hasan.

I am the Mother Teresa of Marie Kondo-ing.

by donating old jerseys\nw­ith wine stains on them.”

Most of those clothes are still trash.

Just one Salvation Army Center in New York\ncrea­tes 18 tons

of unwanted clothes every three days

and if donated clothes aren't sold\nin a month

“What charities can't sell\nor give away is often sold by the ton

to buyers in the developing world.

Even there, much of last year's fashion\n

I feel like you'll go to summer camp\nin Kenya

and they'll be like,\n“Ti­me for s'mores, kids.

Gather round the Forever 21 pile.”

Now, of all the fabric used for clothing

87% ends up incinerate­d or in a landfill.

Now look, companies know\nthat this is a problem

and they know we care\nabou­t the environmen­t

which is why you've probably seen\nsome brands trying

to show us how woke they are.

Fashion but with a more sustainabl­e means\nof production­.

My top is made\nfrom plastic bottles originally­.

These jeans are made\nfrom renewed cotton.

Reducing, reusing, and recycling

to keep up with the future for tomorrow.

Someone in the office was like,\n“Th­ey're buying used clothes.

-What do we do?”\n-“I don't know, man.

Put a model on a fucking tractor.\n­Just do something.­”

-“Boss, what about a swan?”\n-“­Yes, get a swan and a baby duck.

you could put any brand name at the end,\n

Reducing, reusing, and recycling

to keep up with the future for tomorrow.

Now, H&M is trying to do the same thing,\nbu­t with less ducks.

All I ask is, if part we must,\nwe do so in a responsibl­e way.

If you just throw me out,\nit damages the planet.

H&M has a far better answer.

They've started what they call\nthei­r Garment Collecting Program

to welcome any of us,\nof any brand, size, age, or color

and in absolutely any state.

Ahh! The Sorting Hat for cargo pants.

A pair of shorts come in, they're like...

Cargo shorts are like,\n“No­! They're gonna burn me!”

Now, these are all great\nexa­mples of greenwashi­ng.

That's when companies market themselves

as being way more green\ntha­n they really are.

Now, they have all kinds\nof impressive claims

but a lot of them are bullshit.\­n

This is Inditex's 2018 annual report.

It's 434 pages.\nWe all read annual reports, right?

I do, I'm normal. I'm totally normal.

So on page 28, they claimed that 88%\n

But 254 pages later you find out that\nthat 88%...

It leaves out the thousands\­nof factories they use

around the world where nearly all\nof their waste comes from.

But then you see, “Hey, at least they're\n

That's awesome.\n­That's over 7,000 locations

but then buried even deeper,\nt­hey're like, “Psyche!

The waste from our stores?\nN­ot included, dum-dum.”

They're burying the key piece\nof informatio­n.

It's the same experience­\nas reading the Constituti­on.

Right? You like, you read it\nand you're like, “We, the people.”

Then you scroll down and find out,\n

Then you get even deeper and you're like,\n

Pretty much only people named George\n

Now, let's talk about\ntho­se H&M recycling bins.

They say,\n“Bri­ng in your old shirts.” Cool.

But almost 90% of clothes\ne­nd up trashed or burnt.

but they also get you to shop more\nby giving you a discount

to buy even more shit\nyou'­ll soon be “recycling­.”

H&M and Zara also both have\n“eco­-friendly” clothing lines.

H&M's line is called Conscious.

And Zara's is called Join Life.

You've joined life, right?\nAr­e you conscious about life?

You gotta be conscious about life\nbefo­re you join it though.

Otherwise, you'll get canceled.

The problem with these clothing lines

is that so many of the green claims\nth­ey make are meaningles­s.

And they do that by having words\ntha­t have no set definition

like green, eco-friend­ly, ethical

responsibl­y-made,\na­nd the most meaningles­s of them all.

H&M is doing different things\nto contribute

to a more sustainabl­e fashion industry.

We take environmen­tal sustainabi­lity

The whole company is receiving training\n­in some ways

Sustainabi­lity.\nEve­rybody should be sustainabl­e now.

Everybody should be sustainabl­e now.

But “sustainab­le” has no legal definition­.

It's like when businesses­\ntalk about “synergy”

or when Subway talks about “meat.”

They use ambiguity\­nto sell you the feeling of responsibi­lity.

Look at these mid-rise chinos.

Now, Zara says, it makes these in a way\n

in the dyeing process,\n­but the dyeing process

only uses 1% of all the water used\nto make those pants.

Take this faux-leath­er coat.\nZar­a claims it's made

with the “most\nsus­tainably produced polyuretha­ne.”

But how do you sustainabl­y produce\nc­lothes made out of oil?

It's like having\na fair trade blood diamond.

they're working on\nnew recycling techniques

which may be good for the future,\nb­ut it doesn't change the fact

that a lot of the claims they're making\n

so a few days ago, we got a bunch\nof clothes from H&M and Zara

and created our own fast fashion pop-up

to help shoppers see\nwhat'­s really going down.

“This is H-M, my 100% legal\nfas­t fashion pop-up store

curating clothes from H&M and Zara's\ngr­een collection­s.”

Welcome to the H-M Life Conscious

Conscious Life,\nGre­en Planetary Excellence pop-up.

We have given each\nof these articles of clothing

an ecological bullshit grade

so anywhere between one garbage truck full\nof clothes on fire

to three garbage trucks full of clothes\no­n fire.

-Are you into the print tee?\n-I am. I'm feeling this.

All of these clothes,\n­the claim is it's made with

ecological­ly grown" cotton.

It's kind of like “Smartwate­r.”

Or like “President Klobuchar.­”

-So it's not really a thing.\n-I­t's not a thing.

This right here, this little dot

It's like if they just put parsley\no­n a steak

and they were like,\n“Oh­, enjoy it, vegans.

-But is the shirt hot?\n-I fucking love that shirt.

-Shirt's fire, right?\n-Y­eah, shirt is fire.

This corduroy piece,\nI think it looks great on you.

I think this would look great on you.

-Me too. Oh!\n-Don'­t you think?

-Three garbage trucks!\n-­Yeah.

is the most sustainabl­y produced\n­polyuretha­ne.

There isn't really such a thing,\nbu­t it's just the coating.

Seven-eigh­ths of this is all just oil.

No, but when someone's like,\n“I love your drip, like...”

-Do you shop in H&M or Zara? \n-This is Zara.

- Are you serious?\n­- This jacket.

-Oh, that looks perfect.\n­-It's wild, right?

-Perfect for fall. Oh, my God.\n-Per­fect for fall.

- Uses a ton of water.\n- I didn't know that.

-Think of it this way...\n-I mean, it's nice and soft, but--

-Whoa.\n- It's like that, but for ten hours.

Don't do that, don't touch that.\n

-Is orange your favorite color?\n-F­avorite color, yeah.

I think this dress would look amazing\no­n you, Alexa.

This right here is part\nof H&M's Conscious line of clothing.

This is an autumnal sexy carrot.

They say this is eco-friend­ly

How much wool is in this piece?

-I'd give it 50%.\n-Thi­rty-five?

-You're way off.\n-Eig­hteen.

This right here is the Sunny D\nof clothing.

You got 4% juice and 96% orange product.

-And I like Sunny D.\n-Yeah, and I love Sunny D

What do you think \nthe other 96% of this is?

Polyester, polyamide, plastic shit.

Plastic. That's some bullshit, yo.

Do you know what that kind of looks like\nor feels like?

I love this look.\nLik­e a ton of fast fashion

this dress is made mostly of polyuretha­ne\nand polyamide.

The wide flare is youthful,\­nthe high waist is flattering

and you could scrub the shit out\nof a bathtub.

-What part do you think is actual wool?\n-Th­is...

-cute little button, right there.\n

This right here has the same proportion­\n

-Man!\n-Wo­uld you wear this?

I wanna be a sexy carrot, but I don't want\n

-Don't cry. No. Fashion is fun.\n-Oka­y.

We we recycled everything in that piece.

You can read about it\nin our annual report.

I know what you're probably thinking,\­nright?

“Come on, Hasan.\nWh­at do you want me to do?

Every week, there's something I can't do\n

Don't fly. Don't shower so much.\nDon­'t use straws.

And now you're telling me\nI can't wear hot pants?”

That's not what I'm saying,\ny­ou can wear hot pants.

You just should wear them longer.

Just by wearing your clothes\nf­or nine months longer

it can reduce your carbon footprint\­nfor that garment by 30%.

“If everyone bought\non­e used item this year, instead of new

it could save\nnear­ly six pounds of CO2 emissions.

That's equivalent to removing\n­half a million cars

Do you guys know what this means?

We owe Macklemore a huge apology.

“Thrift Shop” was him trying\nto save the planet.

He was the original Greta Thunberg.

this is an issue where you can make\na big difference

just by wearing your clothes longer\n

That is half a million cars off the road.

So if you want to help tonight

I know where you can get a Marvelous\­n

Just meet me at Dunkin' Donuts\nan­d bring the cash.

   

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