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Tonight, I wanna talk about something\nvery important to me:
even if you don't care about fashion
it's important,\nit's a form of expression, right?
What you wear\nsays something about you, right?
Yeah, you wear that shirt\nit says you like that band.
I wear this pink jacket, it says...
I'm the Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.
But fashion is a huge part of our culture
and we are about to enter\nthe holiday shopping season
where Americans are expected\nto spend $1.1 trillion.
We are a society that likes to shop.
Eight fucking bags of Supreme.
Did I need this? No.\nI just think this is amazing.
Research shows some folks actually get\n
According to analysis provided\n
the pleasure center in her brain
She just dropped molly with RoboCop.
Now, in the 1980s,\nthe average American bought
about twelve new articles\nof clothing every year.
Makes sense, right?\nYou guys remember back to school shopping?
Right, your mom takes you to Old Navy.
You get two pairs of jeans,\na performance fleece, and a jacket.
You're like, “7th grade, here I come.”
Now, the average American buys\n68 new pieces a year
of this dominant force\nin the clothing industry.
Fast fashion is a series\nof chain retailers
who basically are able\nto look at the runways
and make garments really quickly
and put them into a “see now-buy now”
Fast fashion is also about,\nwhen we say fast
it's not gonna last in your wardrobe\nvery long.
Fast fashion is about making\ntrendy clothes
quick, cheap, and disposable.
It's like toilet paper that almost makes\n
Now, there are a lot\nof fast fashion retailers
Yeah, fast fashion is popular\n
and they do that by knocking off\ndesigner brands at scale.
You guys remember this video, right?
♪ I like million dollar deals\n
♪ I like those Balenciagas\nThe ones that look like socks ♪
So when she says, “Those Balenciagas,\n
she's talking about these shoes,\nwhich cost about 800 bucks.
So pretty soon,\nZara started selling these for 60 bucks.
For $60, you could basically be\na discount version of Cardi B.
Now, this entire business model\nhas changed the world
and that is why I want\nto talk about fast fashion.
Just look at this room tonight
every brown dude here\nis officially brought to you buy Zara.
That is why we all look like\n
Like I feel like you're gonna come and be like,\n
for you to walk out of here\nwith a 3 Series?”
We want the feeling of luxury\nwithout paying full price.
We want to look expensive-ish.
Right? We've all been to \nH&M and been like
“Dress shirt for eight bucks? Cool.”
I just got to look decent at this wedding
but just like Cinderella,\neverything dissolves by midnight.
The average American woman \nis buying
64 new articles of clothing per year
The only mass-market retailer that
can cater to this extreme need
we have for variety right now
And that's why fast fashion \nhas been
the only segment of the \nfashion industry
that's grown over the last \nfifteen years.
Fast fashion companies\nare killing legacy brands.
and the parent company\nof Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein.
It's like when white people\ngot into the yoga game.
They blew us out of the water.
You guys kicked our fucking ass.
Like, we were humming along\nfor thousands of years
and then CorePower hit Venice Beach\nand it's like... mmm!
Zara's parent company Inditex
is the biggest retail clothing company\nin the world
which has made Zara's founder,\n
He is the seventh richest person\nin the world
Now, you might be wondering,\n
Does he buy a private Island?\nDoes he start a space company?
Does he run\na pointless presidential campaign?”
He really is not a very well-known name,\nlike Warren Buffett.
Amancio Ortega is a guy\nwho just likes to be left alone.
One of his quotes out there,\n
“I just want to live a normal life\n
in the piazza\nwith nobody paying attention to me.”
He's like, “I want to sip coffee\nin the piazza
smoke cigarettes,\nand sleep with the sister of my wife.
Ortega started his retail empire back\nin 1975
when he opened his first clothing store,\nwhich he called Zorba.
This is true,\nZara was originally called Zorba.
But there was also a bar in town\n
so Ortega just rearranged the letters\nto say Zara.
Yeah, even back then\nZara was knocking off other brands.
there is a reason why Zara became\n
They pioneered and perfected\nthe fast fashion business model.
Now generally, legacy brands release\nhuge amounts of clothes
They spend months designing lines,\nbuying and treating fabrics
manufacturing in bulk, and distributing.
It's a process that can take\nnearly two years.
Two years.\nWatergate took the same amount of time
it took Gucci to come up\nwith this Trudeau turtleneck.
I'll tell you what,\nNixon would have been impeached
way faster\nif he had just worn that sweater.
Zara completely changed the fashion game\n
The first is quick response manufacturing,\nwhich basically says
“Forget big expensive releases
let's knock off a design quick,\nkeep raw materials on hand
only make more if it's popular,\nand streamline distribution.”
these companies catch the wave\nwith lightning speed.
two days after she wore\nan eye-catching Thierry Mugler design
which had been ripped off\nby Fashion Nova.
Within 24 hours\nof Kim being seen in the outfit
Fashion Nova launched\na very similar dress, just for $50.
Look at that. Within one day
everyone looked like they accidentally\n
I'm just very sensitive\nabout the way my lungs look.
Look, this is happening all the time.
These Brother Vellies shoes retail $715.
This Knots & Vibes dress, retail $130.
Now, you're probably wondering,\n“How is any of this legal?”
Knockoffs mostly are not counterfeits.
People tend to conflate them,\nbut they're not the same.
It copies the symbols of the brand\nthat made the original.”
So, counterfeits are typically illegal.
“Knockoffs, on the other hand,\n
Knockoffs are basically legal.
That's why you can go to Times Square\n
I got my wife one. I was like,\n“Baby, look.
It's Saint Larry, it's French.”
And she's like, “Hasan, it says ‘Larry.’”
And I'm like, “Babe,\nwhy would Mexican Elmo lie to me?”
Now, making knockoffs super fast
means companies depend on real-time data\n
monitor trends,\nand scour social media for feedback
which brings us to the second pillar\nof their business model
dynamic assortment:\nwhich is just a fancy way of saying
If quick response helps catch waves fast
dynamic assortment constantly pumps out\nnew products
“H&M salespeople tell us\nnew clothes come in every Monday
Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday.”
Instead of two seasons a year,\n
So, we have something new\ncoming in every week.
And fast fashion has created this.
You know we call them weeks, right?
No one needs that much new stuff\nevery week.
No other business works like this.
I stand corrected. I was wrong.
has revolutionized the industry.
But it also means\nwe are now drowning in clothes.
Last year, Inditex alone made\n1.6 billion pieces of clothing
and they run nearly 7,500 stores.
Since 2005, they have been opening\n
These guys are the new Dunkin' Donuts,\n
Next thing you know,\nyou're gonna walk in for a coffee
and then just walk out\nwith three neon puffer jackets.
You're like, “Iqbal, I can't pay cash.
And he's like,\n“Just Venmo me at Iqbal786.”
that's for, like, five people, look...
we all know fast fashion is stylish\nand cheap
but let's be real,\nsocial media really blew it up.
the outfit's got to be poppin'\nfor the 'Gram, right?
Like, you guys were all here tonight,\n
But that outfit's gotta be different\nthan last week's outfit
cause it's on the 'Gram, which means\n
Compared to twenty years ago
we're only keeping\nwhat we buy half as long.
Now, look,\nI'm not saying don't buy clothes
and it is affecting the rest\nof the industry.
Gap, J. Crew, Hollister, Ralph Lauren
Burberry, and Hilfiger have all said\n
to be more like fast fashion.
And all this churn is coming\nat a huge cost.
about the terrible working conditions\nin factories.
At this point, we look at clothes the same\n
We're like, “Wow. I--\nI can't believe a kid made that.”
But a lot of people don't know
what these clothes are doing\nto the planet.
In 2015, textile production\ncreated more greenhouse gases
than international flights\nand maritime shipping combined.
Do you understand what that means?\nThe clothes in your suitcase
are screwing up the planet\nmore than the flight you put them on.
And the problems start\nwhere the clothes start
with the fabrics\nthe clothes are made from.
-Growing the cotton to make that jacket,\n-Yeah.
will have taken 10,330 liters of water.
24 years of drinking water\nfor one person.
-24 years?\n-That's wild, right?
Ansel Elgort can't believe it took\nthat much water
Now, unfortunately,\nsynthetic fabrics are even worse.
use almost 342 million barrels\nof oil a year.
I could tell everyone was cool with me\n
You were like, \n"You blew up my spot
but the white people were like,\n“It's fine.”
a bunch of you guys are like,\n“Fuck. That. Shit.”
Getting the Saudis to give up oil\nis nothing compared
to getting Brooklyn to give up yoga pants.
That would be SoulCycle's Alamo.\n
They're like,\n“Ashley, Amber, Alexis...
Like, “Agh! We're just on Pelotons.\nThey don't move.”
Now, using crude oil\nto make synthetics is bad
but the way we make\nanother fast fashion fabric
called viscose might be even worse.
About 33% of the viscose in clothes
comes from ancient or threatened forests
and the process involves a huge amount\nof waste.
“After the forests are cleared
the wood is pulped and processed\n
but it's shockingly wasteful.
As much as 70% of the harvested wood
Just 30% ends up\nin the garments that we wear.”
Why is that music so inspirational?
It feels like 8 Mile for loggers.\n
making clothes is like\nthe human centipede of supply chains
because at every turn,\nit only gets shittier.
To manufacture fabrics, processing,\ndying, finishing
you have to use a lot of toxic chemicals
which often times just get dumped\nin rivers near villages.
Like the Citarum River in Indonesia
where there are factories\nthat H&M and Zara have worked with.
millions of Indonesians have depended\non the Citarum River.
But today, the river is poisoning them.
Nur's two children are always sick.
Little kids shouldn't have liver problems.
But this textile lobbyist in Indonesia\nisn't worried at all.
Apparently,\nhis mutation is not having a soul.
By the way,\nthat is such a fucking Uncle response.
You're like, “I'm dying of liver failure.”
“Be positive. Maybe you're a mutant.”
Also, he's obviously never seen X-Men.
Mystique isn't blue\nbecause she lived near a denim factory.
They have powers, they're not just sick.
I bet you his favorite superhero movie\n
He's like,\n“Wow, that girl has so many powers.”
I've just been talking\nabout making clothes.
Getting rid of clothes is even worse.
Guys, come in. The average American\n
One American does this.\n
How is this the one thing we don't hoard?
We will throw away all our clothes,\n
Now look, I know what a lot of you guys\n
“None of this applies to me, Hasan.
I am the Mother Teresa of Marie Kondo-ing.
by donating old jerseys\nwith wine stains on them.”
Most of those clothes are still trash.
Just one Salvation Army Center in New York\ncreates 18 tons
of unwanted clothes every three days
and if donated clothes aren't sold\nin a month
“What charities can't sell\nor give away is often sold by the ton
to buyers in the developing world.
Even there, much of last year's fashion\n
I feel like you'll go to summer camp\nin Kenya
and they'll be like,\n“Time for s'mores, kids.
Gather round the Forever 21 pile.”
Now, of all the fabric used for clothing
87% ends up incinerated or in a landfill.
Now look, companies know\nthat this is a problem
and they know we care\nabout the environment
which is why you've probably seen\nsome brands trying
to show us how woke they are.
Fashion but with a more sustainable means\nof production.
My top is made\nfrom plastic bottles originally.
These jeans are made\nfrom renewed cotton.
Reducing, reusing, and recycling
to keep up with the future for tomorrow.
Someone in the office was like,\n“They're buying used clothes.
-What do we do?”\n-“I don't know, man.
Put a model on a fucking tractor.\nJust do something.”
-“Boss, what about a swan?”\n-“Yes, get a swan and a baby duck.
you could put any brand name at the end,\n
Reducing, reusing, and recycling
to keep up with the future for tomorrow.
Now, H&M is trying to do the same thing,\nbut with less ducks.
All I ask is, if part we must,\nwe do so in a responsible way.
If you just throw me out,\nit damages the planet.
H&M has a far better answer.
They've started what they call\ntheir Garment Collecting Program
to welcome any of us,\nof any brand, size, age, or color
and in absolutely any state.
Ahh! The Sorting Hat for cargo pants.
A pair of shorts come in, they're like...
Cargo shorts are like,\n“No! They're gonna burn me!”
Now, these are all great\nexamples of greenwashing.
That's when companies market themselves
as being way more green\nthan they really are.
Now, they have all kinds\nof impressive claims
but a lot of them are bullshit.\n
This is Inditex's 2018 annual report.
It's 434 pages.\nWe all read annual reports, right?
I do, I'm normal. I'm totally normal.
So on page 28, they claimed that 88%\n
But 254 pages later you find out that\nthat 88%...
It leaves out the thousands\nof factories they use
around the world where nearly all\nof their waste comes from.
But then you see, “Hey, at least they're\n
That's awesome.\nThat's over 7,000 locations
but then buried even deeper,\nthey're like, “Psyche!
The waste from our stores?\nNot included, dum-dum.”
They're burying the key piece\nof information.
It's the same experience\nas reading the Constitution.
Right? You like, you read it\nand you're like, “We, the people.”
Then you scroll down and find out,\n
Then you get even deeper and you're like,\n
Pretty much only people named George\n
Now, let's talk about\nthose H&M recycling bins.
They say,\n“Bring in your old shirts.” Cool.
But almost 90% of clothes\nend up trashed or burnt.
but they also get you to shop more\nby giving you a discount
to buy even more shit\nyou'll soon be “recycling.”
H&M and Zara also both have\n“eco-friendly” clothing lines.
H&M's line is called Conscious.
And Zara's is called Join Life.
You've joined life, right?\nAre you conscious about life?
You gotta be conscious about life\nbefore you join it though.
Otherwise, you'll get canceled.
The problem with these clothing lines
is that so many of the green claims\nthey make are meaningless.
And they do that by having words\nthat have no set definition
like green, eco-friendly, ethical
responsibly-made,\nand the most meaningless of them all.
H&M is doing different things\nto contribute
to a more sustainable fashion industry.
We take environmental sustainability
The whole company is receiving training\nin some ways
Sustainability.\nEverybody should be sustainable now.
Everybody should be sustainable now.
But “sustainable” has no legal definition.
It's like when businesses\ntalk about “synergy”
or when Subway talks about “meat.”
They use ambiguity\nto sell you the feeling of responsibility.
Look at these mid-rise chinos.
Now, Zara says, it makes these in a way\n
in the dyeing process,\nbut the dyeing process
only uses 1% of all the water used\nto make those pants.
Take this faux-leather coat.\nZara claims it's made
with the “most\nsustainably produced polyurethane.”
But how do you sustainably produce\nclothes made out of oil?
It's like having\na fair trade blood diamond.
they're working on\nnew recycling techniques
which may be good for the future,\nbut it doesn't change the fact
that a lot of the claims they're making\n
so a few days ago, we got a bunch\nof clothes from H&M and Zara
and created our own fast fashion pop-up
to help shoppers see\nwhat's really going down.
“This is H-M, my 100% legal\nfast fashion pop-up store
curating clothes from H&M and Zara's\ngreen collections.”
Welcome to the H-M Life Conscious
Conscious Life,\nGreen Planetary Excellence pop-up.
We have given each\nof these articles of clothing
an ecological bullshit grade
so anywhere between one garbage truck full\nof clothes on fire
to three garbage trucks full of clothes\non fire.
-Are you into the print tee?\n-I am. I'm feeling this.
All of these clothes,\nthe claim is it's made with
ecologically grown" cotton.
It's kind of like “Smartwater.”
Or like “President Klobuchar.”
-So it's not really a thing.\n-It's not a thing.
This right here, this little dot
It's like if they just put parsley\non a steak
and they were like,\n“Oh, enjoy it, vegans.
-But is the shirt hot?\n-I fucking love that shirt.
-Shirt's fire, right?\n-Yeah, shirt is fire.
This corduroy piece,\nI think it looks great on you.
I think this would look great on you.
-Me too. Oh!\n-Don't you think?
-Three garbage trucks!\n-Yeah.
is the most sustainably produced\npolyurethane.
There isn't really such a thing,\nbut it's just the coating.
Seven-eighths of this is all just oil.
No, but when someone's like,\n“I love your drip, like...”
-Do you shop in H&M or Zara? \n-This is Zara.
- Are you serious?\n- This jacket.
-Oh, that looks perfect.\n-It's wild, right?
-Perfect for fall. Oh, my God.\n-Perfect for fall.
- Uses a ton of water.\n- I didn't know that.
-Think of it this way...\n-I mean, it's nice and soft, but--
-Whoa.\n- It's like that, but for ten hours.
Don't do that, don't touch that.\n
-Is orange your favorite color?\n-Favorite color, yeah.
I think this dress would look amazing\non you, Alexa.
This right here is part\nof H&M's Conscious line of clothing.
This is an autumnal sexy carrot.
They say this is eco-friendly
How much wool is in this piece?
-I'd give it 50%.\n-Thirty-five?
-You're way off.\n-Eighteen.
This right here is the Sunny D\nof clothing.
You got 4% juice and 96% orange product.
-And I like Sunny D.\n-Yeah, and I love Sunny D
What do you think \nthe other 96% of this is?
Polyester, polyamide, plastic shit.
Plastic. That's some bullshit, yo.
Do you know what that kind of looks like\nor feels like?
I love this look.\nLike a ton of fast fashion
this dress is made mostly of polyurethane\nand polyamide.
The wide flare is youthful,\nthe high waist is flattering
and you could scrub the shit out\nof a bathtub.
-What part do you think is actual wool?\n-This...
-cute little button, right there.\n
This right here has the same proportion\n
-Man!\n-Would you wear this?
I wanna be a sexy carrot, but I don't want\n
-Don't cry. No. Fashion is fun.\n-Okay.
We we recycled everything in that piece.
You can read about it\nin our annual report.
I know what you're probably thinking,\nright?
“Come on, Hasan.\nWhat do you want me to do?
Every week, there's something I can't do\n
Don't fly. Don't shower so much.\nDon't use straws.
And now you're telling me\nI can't wear hot pants?”
That's not what I'm saying,\nyou can wear hot pants.
You just should wear them longer.
Just by wearing your clothes\nfor nine months longer
it can reduce your carbon footprint\nfor that garment by 30%.
“If everyone bought\none used item this year, instead of new
it could save\nnearly six pounds of CO2 emissions.
That's equivalent to removing\nhalf a million cars
Do you guys know what this means?
We owe Macklemore a huge apology.
“Thrift Shop” was him trying\nto save the planet.
He was the original Greta Thunberg.
this is an issue where you can make\na big difference
just by wearing your clothes longer\n
That is half a million cars off the road.
So if you want to help tonight
I know where you can get a Marvelous\n
Just meet me at Dunkin' Donuts\nand bring the cash.